Saturday, December 5, 2015

The Final Day – Meeting with USAID 12/5/2012



We left San Marcos at 8:00 this morning for the five hour drive to Guatemala City with a planned stop for breakfast outside of Xena.  I dressed in my “meeting with the important guy from USAID clothes” just in case we got delayed.  We ended up going about five miles an hour for miles and miles because of road construction.  Once traffic got moving, we were waved over behind a long line of cars for a security check.  These are always tricky in Guatemala.  Sometimes they are legitimate as this one turned out to be.  The police look at the driver’s papers and license, and if all is in order, they send him on his way.  However, there are many fake police stopping cars on the highway.  They ask for your papers and then won’t give them back unless you pay some exorbitant fee.   Luis knows how to recognize them once he’s stopped, and he tells them he’s a lawyer, asks for their name and says they are committing illegal detainment and search of a private vehicle.  They always back off and wave him on.  Luis’ wife, Bellama and 14 yr old son, Rodrigo traveled with us to the city, Rodrigo in the middle of the back seat between Bellama and me.  He’s tall and skinny and as soon as we left Xela, he put on his earphones and fell asleep with his head on Bellama’s shoulder and his legs sprawled over both of us.  Bellama tried to reign him in a few times but I told her I was fine as it was clearly impossible to move him.  We got to the hotel at 3:00, an hour before our scheduled meeting – plenty of time for a late lunch.
Jeff Leher is the USAID director for the Western Highlands of Guatemala.  The region contains five districts including San Marcos.  We met for and hour and a half, describing the projects using photographs and some of my power points. Luis related his own background including the work he has done with various NGO’s and Bette explained Shuarhands and its involvement.  Jeff talked about his areas of responsibility and some of the projects in San Marcos that USAID is involved in.  Although he couldn’t make concrete commitments at this introductory meeting, he seemed very impressed with what we’ve done, with the people in the villages, with Luis as a person and as an integral part of the success of the program. He was also very impressed with the impact of the program in relation to the cost.  His advice was to stay closely involved with Rachael as she can guide Luis to a number of people who are involved in groups that are working in areas that can offer assistance.  Our sense is that these groups receive some USAID funding and this is the ‘nose under the tent’ entryway to direct funding.  He also said he will await Rachael’s report and then ‘go from there.’  All in all it was a very encouraging meeting, and most importantly, Luis felt good about Jeff.
I learned a couple more interesting details about the Cuban doctors.  They make the equivalent of about $20.00 US dollars a month in Cuba, and about $1000.00 a month in Guatemala. (all these are US equivalents.)  Cuban doctors come out of medical school trained as generalists and don’t do surgery.  Further training is required to do any surgery.  Guatemalan doctors come out of school as doctor/surgeons, able to do appendectomies, hernias and other relatively minor surgeries.  In the public hospitals and clinics, they make $450/month so most go into private practice where they can charge much more and there is therefore a big doctor shortage for the poor in Guatemala.  No wonder the Cuban doctors are willing to sacrifice and leave their families to come to Guatemala.
Tomorrow I fly home with a few jobs left to do:
1. Contact Shriners to see if they do international work or if they take charity cases from other countries for Juan, the boy with the terrible, unhealed burn scars.
2. Find out if anyone in the US has learned the cataract surgery technique pioneered by Dr. Sanduk Ruit who does $25 surgery in 5 minute in Nepal and India, removing cataracts and inserting a new lenses. Many of our adult patients in Tacaná and Sibinal are blind due to cataracts, and the only local eye surgeons moved to Guatemala City after their building fell down in earth quake.  We need a group of good-hearted ophthalmologists to come and fix some eyes.
3. Find out the name of the NGO that reconstructs underdeveloped ears and see if they come to Guatemala so the child with microtia can have surgery.

THAT’S IT FOR NOW!!
Thank you all.

A Day in the Policlínica – 12/4/2015


Previously, when I have seen patients in the clinic in San Marcos, they have mainly come from the city or from areas closer in and have been a step up on the socioeconomic ladder.  The parents’ concerns have therefore been related to school performance, crooked teeth, a cough that occurred only around animals or mild speech delays.  The distinction, of course is that once they have moved beyond the daily struggle for survival, once they were confident that their children were basically healthy and thriving, parents can afford to turn their attention to refining that health.  This time, however, Luis posted signs in the outlying villages that a pediatrician from the US would be at the clinic on Friday, so the patients I saw were mainly from indigenous families living in villages as far as three hours by bus from San Marcos.  Although the following stories may read like a bad novel, I assure you they represent an accurate account of my day.  As the last patient kissed my cheek and left the clinic, Bette turned to me and said, “Nobody could make this stuff up.”

The first patient of the morning was a 14 year old boy from a town four hours away.  His mother carried with her a folder of records from a dozen consultations.  He has Retinitis Pigmentosa, an inherited disease that usually begins in adolescence, starting with difficulty seeing at night.  There is a steady progression of loss of vision until the patient only has a small tunnel of vision left.  Eventually, usually around age forty or so, that vision is lost as well.  The boy currently has only a very small degree of tunnel vision and attends a center for the blind where he is learning how to navigate the world.  His mother came all the way to see me because she hoped that being a doctor from the US I would either look into her son’s eyes and see something different, another condition that the Guatemalan doctors had missed, a condition instantly curable with a pill, or that I would know of a new miracle treatment available in the US.  I examined him and we talked about research and advances and breakthroughs, and I promised to go online and make sure my knowledge was up to date, but in the end, of course, her journey here did not change the course of her son’s progressing blindness.
The second boy was a twelve year old who “still wets his bed even though his eight and six year old siblings don’t.” Said siblings were dancing around the room holding their little crotches, giggling and pointing at their brother and whispering, “mojada,” (wet.)  It’s very unusual to see any sort of teasing like this among siblings here as they generally are fiercely loyal to and protective of each other.  This behavior told me that this was a major family issue with this boy being a target.  It turned out that all the kids sleep together in one small bed and therefore they all wake up soaked with urine each night.  The boy, frantic to avoid wetting the bed, gets up six or seven times a night to pee, waking the parents, letting the cold air in and generally disrupting the household, and still wetting the bed.  I had a long discussion about bed-wetting and gave the usual suggestions, but it’s harder when the family lives in a small dirt-floored home, sleeping together in one room.  In addition the mother  has to wash the sheets, and this means heating water over a fire, dumping it in a tub outside the doorway, scrubbing them by hand, and hanging them on the bushes.  All the neighbors know.  The final blow for this boy is that he has microtia, an underdeveloped right ear.  He does have enough of the ear that a good plastic surgeon could reconstruct it for him and get a nice cosmetic result.  Fortunately there is a group, similar to Operation Smile that specializes in ears, and I told the mother I would look them up to see if they come to Guatemala.
The next patient was a 14 month old boy who arrived wrapped in a cloth on his mother’s back.  She had a three year old girl and five year old boy with her and a large basket with food and other supplies for what had been a two day journey to the clinic.  She also carried a large envelope that contained X-rays for me to see.  She told me that she had seen some specialists a month ago in a large city closer to where she lived.  They had done these tests and told her that her son’s brain was, “dead in the front and back,” and that, ”his hips were very bad and he will never walk.”  They sent her home telling her there was nothing to do.  She had come to see if there was anything else she could do for her son.  The films turned out to be a CT of the head and AP (front to back) and frog-leg (legs flexed at hip and knee,) X-rays of the hips.  The written reports were also present.  The CT of the head was entirely normal, not only to my pediatrician’s reading (before I read the report,) but also to the radiologist whose conclusion was “normal CT of the brain.”  The hips were another matter as they were dislocated but also showed poor mineralization of the bones and a small sacrum.  On examination, the boy clearly had weakness and atrophy of his lower extremities and some deformity of his feet consistent with either a low spina bifida occulta or a form of sacral agenesis.  In any case, he has neurological problems involving his low spinal cord.  Mom said his urine stream is very weak as well, so he likely has kidney damage going on.  He will need to see the pediatric neurologist in Guatemala City, and Luis will arrange it.  Mom left reassured that her son did not have a dead brain but still not certain of his future walking ability.
Next came a lovely 14 year old girl who walked in supported by her mother.  The story was that at two weeks of age the girl had developed pneumonia and had been hospitalized for IV antibiotics.  When the IV sites became difficult to find, the doctors changed to giving injections in the leg. The mother pointed to the lower legs, just above the ankles.  I asked if she meant that IV’s were placed there, but she was adamant that shots were given there in both legs for several days.  After that hospitalization, the girl’s legs were weak, and she never developed properly from the waist down, according to the mother.  On further questioning, the mother and girl admitted to some arm and neck weakness but mainly concentrated on the legs.  The girl is intelligent, is independent with a walker and attends school.  She had an evaluation in Xela three years ago with “a group of specialists” who couldn’t give the mother a diagnosis different from the one related to the injections, but told her the girl would not survive beyond 14 or maybe 18 years of age.  The mother came two hours by bus, (without the walker as it would have been an extra charge to put it on the bus,) because the school wants the girl to quit because, “since she’s going to die soon, it doesn’t make sense to take their time teaching her.”  She was hoping I could give a diagnosis and a letter for the school. My examination confirmed the girl’s generalized weakness and low tone, but also revealed multiple café-au-lait.  On questioning, the Mom revealed that her brother, (the girl’s uncle,) also has these spots.  She denied that she had any, but likely does as the girl has Neurofibromatosis, a dominantly inherited disorder.  There is a very wide range of symptoms, many people only have the café-au-lait, but some, like this girl, have more serious manifestations.  For once I was able to make a direct positive impact for a patient.  I gave the mom the diagnosis and discussed with her and the girl that there was no reason to expect anything but a full normal life.  We discussed that rather than leaving school, she should concentrate on her education as she is very bright and loves learning.  A letter was written and Luis will follow up with the school in his lawyer persona to make sure the girl is supported.  The down side for this girl is that there are many complications that can occur with NF, and she will not be monitored for these.
The next patient was a two year old who was scheduled for surgery for his cleft palate the following week.  His mother had taken him to the local clinic because he wasn’t speaking as clearly as she thought he should be, and the doctor told her he had a cleft palate.  She had seen a neighbor’s child with a cleft palate and couldn’t see anything like that in her child’s mouth.  When she questioned him the doctor said it was a “partial cleft.” She came for another opinion.  Though I almost lost a finger trying to feel the back of the palate to rule out a submucus cleft, (a cleft of the hard palate hidden by the normal covering of the soft palate,) I finally was able to confirm that the child’s palate was normal. I’m not sure what the doctor had planned for this child, but at least now it won’t happen.
Just to insert a little badly needed levity, there is a wonderful cleaning woman who has been at the Policlínica since its inception in 2011.  She takes great pride in keeping the place spotless, especially the white-tiled floors.  After every second patient, she would knock softly on the door and come in with her cloth wrapped mop and her spray bottle of strongly scented floor cleaner and thoroughly mop the room.  As the day was very tightly booked and the waiting room was mobbed, these short disruptions began to add up.  When Bette tried to gently tell her we didn’t need the floor cleaned so frequently, she answered that every patient deserved a “sweet smelling room for their examination.”  How could one argue with that?
Next we saw a mother with three of her four children.  They were obviously poor and from the campo and none had bathed in a very long time.  All three kids had scars from previous burns, two fairly mild and one severe covering part of his scalp and face.  Burns are very common in places where cooking, washing and heating are done over open fires, but having three of four children with burns was worrisome.  I’ve posted photos on Picasa of the family outside with the bags of school supplies. The older girl was very sweet and quite beautiful.  Her hair likely hadn’t been washed in months and she was very underweight.  On the other hand, she and her siblings had no cavities in their teeth – too poor to afford sweets.
The saddest case of the morning was an eight year old boy with burns.  Six months ago, while his parents were up the mountain gathering firewood, he tried to make himself some coffee from the big kettle of water, boiling over the open fire in the middle of the dirt floor of the hut.  The kettle tipped, he fell and boiling water soaked the back of his shorts and ran into the front of the boots.  By the time he got everything off, he had third degree burns over the tops of both feet and from the waist down over both buttocks.  He was taken to the government hospital where he stayed for 12 days.  His mother said the doctor told her that her son needed skin grafts but that the anesthesia was too dangerous so they sent him home with cream.  Now, six months later, he has deeply infected unhealed scar tissue covering the burned areas.  He can barely walk and sitting is impossible.  These scars will never heal as the blood supply was destroyed along with all of the supporting tissue.  He needs a prolonged stay in a burn center with extensive grafting.  I had to take a break after I saw him so that I could collect myself, greet the next patient civilly and give my attention to his or her story.  How any physician could turn a child away for what could only have been financial reasons, knowing the likely outcome would be death or severe disability is beyond my comprehension.  I’m not sure where we will find the care this boy urgently needs, but he’s on the top of our list.  Meanwhile, I’m left with the picture of this lovely little boy, thanking me with a kiss on my cheek and a soft “gracias a Dios por venir” being helped out of the room by his mother.  I know the world is full of suffering children, especially right now with what’s going on in Syria.  It’s just hard to be directly in its presence.
So I did save an uplifting and humorous story for the end.  Oscar was the last patient of the day, an eight year old with leg pains at night, likely “growing pains.”  When I introduced myself as doctora Bartlett, he looked a bit skeptical and turned to Bette and asked if she was a doctor as well.  She said no, that she was my helper and that only I was a doctor.  He looked me over again, clearly not believing my story.  As background I should say that when I work in the clinic, I always wear my white coat because the patients expect the formality of the uniform.  I had taken it off because we had thought we were done and then Oscar and his father arrived late. So Oscar, took a big breath and said, severely, “Pero, no tiene uniforme de doctora.” (But, you don’t have a doctor uniforme.)  Although I could barely contain myself, likely because I was nearly hysterical from the emotional hits of the day, I calmly said to Oscar, “Oh sí, lo tengo!” (oh yes, I have it!)  grabbed my white coat out of my bag where I had stuffed it, put it on with a great flourish, buttoned all the buttons and presented myself to Oscar.  He kept a very straight face, looked me over again and then nodded his acceptance.  It was delightful and a perfect end to an otherwise trying day.
So just a couple of notes of interest.  The two Cuban doctors, Rosita and Judith stopped by the clinic to say goodbye. We had time to visit a bit and learned more about their situation.  There are 28 Cuban doctors and nurses living in San Marcos in shared houses.  From Monday through Thursday they are bussed to various villages where they stay and work in the clinics and on Friday they are bussed back to San Marcos for the weekend.  Both Rosita and Judith are married and Rosita has a 12 year old daughter and Judith has a four year old son.  Relatives help to care for them and they only get to see them once a year for the two year commitment.  Doing this exchange with Guatemala apparently advances their careers enough that it’s worth it though they both clearly miss their children and husbands.
And finally, when Rachael, the field worker from USAID was in Sibinal and Tacaná with us, she looked carefully at the gardens, the animals and the recently harvested corn.  Once back in the car, she told us that the corn was heavily infected with the Aflatoxin that is devastating the corn here this year in particular.  Studies have recently linked this toxin  to stunting, particularly as it affects the brain growth in malnourished children.  The recommendation is that the people not eat the corn, but of course that option is not open to them as it is their main source of food.
So that’s the end of Friday’s adventure. Saturday we drive back to Guatemala City and I meet with Jeff Leher, the director of USAID in the Western Highlands.  My fingers are crossed for a productive meeting.




Thursday, December 3, 2015

Day Two in Tacaná 12/3/2015



After breakfast at the hotel, we returned to San Antonio, Tacaná for a morning of patients and an afternoon with Rachael Shenyo from USAID.  After all the times I’ve been in Guatemala, this is the first time I’ve been in the town of Tacaná.  There is a municipality of Tacaná, and the capital that has a main street with shops, a hotel and a few restaurants.  Then there’s the village of San Antonio that I have been calling Tacaná.  In fairness to my confusion, San Antonio has no real center and its inhabitants are spread over a wide area on the mountaintop in the municipality of Tacaná.  Anyway, for simplicity’s sake, I will likely continue to refer to it as Tacaná.  When Rachael told me she would take a Taxi to the town center and then call Luis to pick her up, I emailed back that we would probably see her since the town was so small.  Later, when I found out there was an actual town in addition to the village, I realized my mistake.
The morning was busy as we had put up a sign with the half-day hours.  The first patient was a 13 year old girl who had come by herself from a village three hours away.  She was a soccer player and wanted to know what to do to prevent the muscle cramps that she got toward the end of games and at night.  She was very earnest and paid close attention to the discussion of dehydration, pre, during and post -game water intake, and the role of salt in the form of a few crackers.  She was very self-possessed – impressive.  I saw a mother with two year old twin girls and a three month old baby boy.  The girls were in her arms, screaming from the moment she entered the room; the boy slept, wrapped on her back the whole time.  As I examined the girls on her lap, they cried and squirmed and kicked and pushed my hands away.  Bette and I did our best to keep them from landing on the floor, and the mother smiled and kept a great sense of humor through the whole ordeal.  Even when I had finished and moved away, the girls continued to cry and kick.  Another woman from the village finally came in and took one of the girls to the waiting area where she continued to scream.  Bette took a short video that I will post if Picasa lets me.
Though most of the kids I see in the remote villages come in their usual clothes, often their only clothes or one of two sets, occasionally I’ll see a freshly washed and combed child in what is clearly their “Sunday” outfit.  I saw a brother and sister today whose mother had obviously washed and dressed them for the visit.  The kids were four and six years old and were so proud of how they looked.  They beamed when I commented on how pretty and handsome they looked, patting their hair and smoothing their clothes.  The boy, who was four, told me he had new underpants, (ropa interior,) too, undoing his belt and pulling down his trousers to show me.  His sister was torn between being mortified and wanting to show off her new undies as well.  I asked if she had new underwear and when she nodded I said maybe she could show me when I was checking her.  It all worked out.  She sneaked up the edge of her dress to show me while Mom made sure her brother wasn’t peaking; modesty preserved.
Rachael arrived around 11:30 with a man named Bryan who is here with his wife for four years. They are from the Presbyterian Church Women’s Project and are supporting various women’s empowerment programs in Guatemala.  He came along to see how the women in these villages were being treated.  Domestic violence is a huge problem in Guatemala.  It varies widely from region to region; I haven’t seen it where I’ve been.  However, in some areas, the women are completely dominated by the men, and it’s not uncommon to see men beating their wives on the streets. One of the Cuban doctors worked in Comitancillo where the women didn’t speak at their medical appointments.  Instead, the husband or brother or other male relative accompanying them did all the talking.  They were not allowed to undress for the examination, and no gyn exams were allowed.  Bryan’s wife is working with various groups and Bryan is working with some men’s groups trying to change their perceptions of women.  He said it is very slow hard work.
We finished seeing patients around 1:00 and started off on a tour of the newly completed irrigation project.  Nearly every family has a spigot on the top of a pipe near their house.  They attach a hose to the spigot and the hose runs to another pipe that has a large spray unit on top.  They can place this pipe wherever they have planted a garden.  We saw multiple irrigated gardens with carrots, ayote, beans, broccoli, cauliflower and other vegetables native to Guatemala.  Rachael gave suggestions about adding ground cover to retain the water, and discussed ways to combine some of the plants to maximize growth.  Six months ago there were no animals in Tacaná, it was quiet.  Now you hear the voices of sheep, goats, geese, chickens, cows, turkeys and pigs all over the village.  Rachael has a degree in animal husbandry and spoke with some of the villagers about vaccination programs and ways to improve the care of the animals.  Both she and Bryan were blown away by what they saw, both by the gardens and produce and by the energy and enthusiasm of the people.  Rachael gave many suggestions for programs and people to connect with including a non-profit she’s involved with outside of USAID. Luis was very pleased and encouraged.  Rachael will write up a report of her visit to send to the central office and assured us that it will be very positive.  She is not in any decision-making positions, but I think her opinion will carry some weight.
After seeing the gardens at Tacaná, we drove to the nacimiento for a “quick look.”  There has been a complete transformation of the spring and tanks.  They are full, clean and painted white.  The filtration system has been installed and is running smoothly.  Rachael inspected every aspect and was amazed that the villagers had done all the technical work themselves.  As we were getting ready to leave for Sibinal, Noe, the project leader at Tacaná called everyone together and made a lengthy speech of thanks to Bette, Luis and me for initiating and providing funds for the projects.  We were each presented with a gift and then each had to make a short speech.  It was a very moving ceremony, and I was deeply touched.  The only problem was that it lasted until 3:00 pm and we still needed to show Rachael the Sibinal project and try to get her and Bryan back to San Marcos in time for the last bus to Xela.
In Sibinal, we toured the gardens and saw the roses in the greenhouse, all of which required hiking down a long, somewhat treacherous path.  By the time we had climbed back up to the car, we were all lightheaded, having last eaten at 7:00am. Rachael and Bryan had left Xela by bus for San Marcos very early and then completed the journey to Tacaná by taxi.  They had expected lunch on arrival in Tacaná so they also were in need of food.  Since the time was now very short, we elected to forego a restaurant lunch, instead stopping at a tiny shop for crackers, chips, yogurt and bread.  Rachael bravely opted for fried chicken from the street vendor outside, but then she lives here.  We managed to make it to San Marcos just as the Xela bus was pulling out – mission accomplished. Bette and I, unwilling to face sitting in a restaurant, got ‘Cup of Noodles’ and yogurt from the store by our hotel.  I’ve been posting photos on Picasa and will soon head to bed.  Tomorrow, Luis’s wife, Bella who works as the receptionist in the Policlínica, has booked 50 patients for me to see!

Day One in Tacaná 12/2/2015


We left the hotel in Sibinal at about 7:00 this morning for the half hour drive to the town of San Antonio in Tacaná.  We had breakfast at the home of Noe, the man who spent some time in the US and speaks passable English. He’s the main contact in Tacaná as Marco is in Sibinal.  We’ll see more of the irrigation project tomorrow with Rachael from USAID, but we did get to see Noe’s system.  The pipes are laid from the holding tanks at the spring to the town and then underground to 100 homes.  They then come to the surface and end in a spigot at each site.  A long hose attaches to a large sprinkler that can be placed wherever the family has gardens.  Noe’s family is growing ayotes which look like big melons but are in the squash family.  They also have a plot of frijoles isichos, beans that grow in pods and come in bright blue, pink, yellow and green.  It’s a surprise each time you open the pod.  Once I have WIFI, I’ll post some photos on Picasa.  Geese and chickens were fighting for territory , and there were large numbers of turkeys by the roadside.  Noe said the project took 15 days with nearly the whole village digging from 8:00am till 6:00pm.   Though it’s only a half hour drive from Sibinal, Tacaná is much drier due to the higher elevation and lack of morning fog.  The irrigation is already making a huge difference in the crops they are growing.
We set up the clinic in the same school we used last year.  The kids are on vacation, helping harvest the corn, but we had a heavy morning, heavy on babies and toddlers.  There was only one unusual patient, a one year old boy with an impressive heart murmur whose mother was unaware.  When I asked her if she’d been told about her baby having an extra sound in his heart, she said no.  She then said that she’s been sent to a specialist when her baby was a month old to “check his stomach.” The specialist listened to his heart and told her the baby had colic.  As the baby looked otherwise well and had a normal oxygen level, Luis will set up a visit at the cardiac institute some time after the first of the year.
We returned to Noe’s house for lunch, and among the people at the table was his grandfather.  Halfway through lunch, he started talking about some type of corn that only old people, and maybe Cubans, like.  When the Cuban doctors said they liked it too, he was very pleased. He then shifted his gaze to me, told me he was 78 and asked how old I was.  I asked him how old he thought I was, and after pondering for a few minutes, he said, “Ochenta!!!” (80.) I kept a straight face and said, “No, I’m actually Ochenta y Ocho (88.)  He was stunned and kept loudly repeating 88, all the while staring at me.  His wife came out of the house and he told her I was 88. She also was surprised and went back in to tell her daughter and the other women in the house and they all came out to stare.  I went on eating my lunch, a bit insulted that they actually believed me, but basking in the knowledge that I must look pretty darn good for an 88 year old.
The afternoon was busy but held no surprises, and we drove to the new hotel around 5:30.  Luis was sure it had WIFI, but alas, there is none. Tomorrow we plan to see patients in the morning and then, when Rachael arrives, we’ll show her the Tacaná projects and then drive to Sibinal to show her what’s happened there.

Day Two in Sibinal 12/1/2015



Once again I’m writing the blog on Word as there has been no WIFI access at either the hotel or the house where we are holding the clinic.  Luis spent a lot of time tracking down the owner of the house who had the authority to turn on the WIFI signal.  That accomplished, Luis had to drive to the town center to buy a card with an access code and password.  In the end, the little plug-in router only worked on the ancient house laptop and none of us could get online even to access our email.  My wonderful world-traveling brother researched pocket hotspots for me, even sent  me the links for the two best ones for Guatemala.  In the pre-trip chaos, it slipped off my list, and I can hear him laughing, (in disgust.) I’m keeping my fingers crossed that our hotel in Tacaná will be WIFI equipped, but more likely it will be Thursday evening in San Marcos before I am able to reconnect.
Today was a culture shock day for me on various levels.  At various times and places, I’ve experienced things that jolt me into remembering that people from other countries are from other countries.  There are some variations on the reasons for the differences; some are simply due to poverty and others seem more country or region specific. Some things are completely trivial and others are heart rending and impossible for me to really “accept.”  A couple examples of each follow.
 First, there was today’s breakfast, spaghetti with hot salsa, black beans with jalapeños and tortillas. Though Luis and the Cuban doctors were delighted and asked for more, it was a real challenge for Bette and me to start our day with a meal that sets your tongue on fire and makes you break out in a sweat. Luckily there was also atole, a hot, sweet, thick drink made from cornmeal, and chamomile tea.
The second trivial culture “shock” or perhaps jolt or bump are more appropriate words here, is seeing how women are portrayed in advertisements and clothing stores.  The shops that sell women’s clothing all have half-mannequins, only the lower half is important, dressed in skin-tight pants. These are displayed at the edge of the sidewalk in a posture maximizing the tight fit of the pants over the buttocks.  Bill boards and ads for everything rely on beautiful, flirtatious, scantily clad women to do the selling.  It must be incredibly frustrating to be a serious woman here.
The more difficult side of my cultural conflict concerns two patients.  At breakfast
Luis and I were discussing how to arrange an evaluation for the boy I saw yesterday who came from the very remote village and couldn’t walk unsupported or speak.  I was telling Luis that the aunt was literate and could, perhaps help the boy learn how to read.  Luis said that this was very unlikely.   Even though the aunt clearly was invested in her nephew, having traveled over a week to bring him for an evaluation, tutoring him would mean seeing him as an intelligent person, and Luis felt this was very unlikely to occur.  He went on to explain that once a person is labeled as handicapped in rural Guatemala, the family puts him in a different category, still in the family but more in a boarder role.  The person is taken care of, as one would a beloved pet, he explained, but it would be very unusual to spend time on educating such a child.  Some of this attitude is practical.  Everyone in the family, including the children work hard in this agrarian society, and there is no time or money to spend on special services for a handicapped family member.  The parents still love the child, but he is not productive. They make sure he’s fed and clothed and secure and then they go about their work for the day.  No one has the luxury of sitting with the child and teaching him his letters.  Though there are government programs in place that would provide free physical and speech therapy and free special educational services to this boy, none of those are available in the rural parts of the country.  Being an educated city-dweller, Luis knows things could be different for the boy, but he also is Guatemalan and he accepts that this is the reality in his country.  Being who I am, a pediatrician and therefore a child-advocate from the US, I have a much harder time accepting that this boy’s life is determined by where he lives.  I can envision an alternate life for him, physical and speech therapy, an education leading to eventual employment, rather than the life he’s likely headed for, sitting on the side of the road with a cup, begging.  Unfortunately, my alternative vision is just fantasy as I can’t fix the world.  Usually I understand this, but today, as you’ll see from the second story, I’m finding it a bit harder.
Norma is a now 19 year old young woman whom I met in February of this year.  She had what turned out to be severe rapid onset rheumatoid arthritis that had begun three years previously and had virtually destroyed most of her large and small joints.  She was seen shortly after our clinic by a rheumatologist in Guatemala City and started on medications, and arrangements were made for a therapist to come  to her home.  Unfortunately, she has had very little improvement and spends most of her days in bed.  She and the family are extremely disappointed as they had expected a dramatic recovery.  Luis has spent a tremendous amount of time transporting Norma to and from appointments and picking up medications. He also has been trying to arrange for Norma to receive free intensive care through a team approach at a rehabilitation center in the city. Norma’s parents have rejected this idea and have elected to not refill her prescriptions as they run out.  We visited Norma and her family today, and found her in her bed, the wheelchair Luis purchased for her stashed in the corner.  She barely reacted to our visit and seemed very depressed.  Luis’ take is that the family expected that Norma would stand up and walk after the specialist saw her and they now feel that further treatment is not worth the effort.   In addition, Norma is now in that “boarder” category, and therefore spending time doing range of motion exercises and getting her into the wheelchair, and spending money on medications no longer makes sense.  My take is that in addition to the cultural differences, a medical bomb hit this family three years ago and they are all still in shock.  Norma barely reacted to our visit, just lay in bed looking at the ceiling, and only making eye contact when I asked her a direct question two or three times.  I had brought some devices to assist her in holding utensils and cups, but she had no interest in them, allowing me to try them on her hand, but looking away, not commenting.  Norma was a normal 16 year old girl three years ago and now is bedridden.  Her parents have accepted that this is now her future and they are trying to get on with their lives with her two younger siblings.  Culturally, what’s happening to Norma is normal here.  Looking at a life outside of the village where you are born is very rare, so when Luis talks to the parents about a big opportunity for Norma in the city, the parents automatically reject it. They can’t envision a future for Normal outside their home.
When we left Norma’s house, I was close to tears, and even now, as I write this, I find it hard to find that rational culture acceptance that I am usually able to call up.  For this particular girl, I know, medically, that there are basically two choices. If the family chooses to do nothing more, Norma will live the rest of her life in her bed. She may die young from complications of being bedridden or she may live long enough that her care will be transferred to her siblings when her parents get too old to care for her.  If instead they choose to let her go to the rehabilitation center, she can receive an evaluation by a coordinated team of specialists and have the intensive rehabilitation she needs to maximize her physical potential.  She can complete her education and receive counseling and job placement assistance.  It’s possible that she would have friends and a semi-independent life.  That’s my fantasy for Norma, but because there actually is a government sponsored rehab center in Guatemala City with a space for her, all services free to the patient, this fantasy could be Norma’s alternate reality if her parents were able to step outside their culture and let her go.
Okay, enough angst for one posting.  The room where I see kids in Sibinal is on the second floor of a large house. There are windows on three sides so I can see all around the village.  One thing that struck me today is that the kids in the village are running around playing all day long.  Nobody needs to prescribe 60 minutes of activity a day to these kids.  Nobody has a scheduled soccer game, dance lesson or music lesson.  The kids run in packs of all ages, the larger one helping the smaller ones up the hills or over boulders. No adults are involved.  Sometimes a game is organized with sticks or rocks or caves made out of old cornstalks, but mainly there’s a lot of running and climbing.  Cleanliness is not highly valued.  Faces and hands get washed but most kids wear the same clothes for at least a week at a time and socks and underwear aren’t part of the outfit.  Shoes are hit or miss and the kids’ feet are thickly calloused.  Most of the kids born here will live their lives here.  Again, I struggle with my educated expectations for children.  These kids have no expectations of college or even high school. Most will top out at 2nd or 3rd grade though the grade school here does go through 6th.  The parents don’t see the need for education, and the kids are needed to help with the farming.  I find myself feeling sad for the kids, for their lack of opportunity to “have a better life,” or to have a choice to be something other than a farmer or farmer’s wife in a rural village.  It’s such a hard life.  And then I have my self-to-self discussion about me imposing my values on theirs and questioning whether the majority of youth of the developed world have it that much better than these kids.  The family structure here is strong, the kids are safe and secure, and with the agriculture projects in these three areas, malnutrition is decreasing dramatically.  Who’s to say what’s best?
On a final, “however” note, I saw a 15 year old girl who had been seen at the government clinic for a pain in her lower abdomen two weeks ago.  An ultrasound showed an ovarian cyst and surgery was recommended.  Her parents haven’t made the appointment for surgery because they’re scared and they don’t have the money to pay for the surgery.  They asked me my opinion.  I didn’t have the paper that showed the size of the cyst, so I had to give them an explanation based on scenarios – a small cyst might go away on its own but a larger cyst could twist and could cause the ovary to lose its blood supply.  Not being able to afford needed medical care is a huge issue in Guatemala.  There is a big shortage of doctors here which is why the two Cuban doctors are in Guatemala. A couple of years ago, the Guatemalan president made a deal with Cuba. Guatemala pays Cuba to send doctors here for two years. After that, the doctors get two years to go work in any country they like and Guatemala pays their salary. It’s a great deal for the doctors; many go to Africa or other Central or South American Countries, and Guatemala, though paying a lot of money, gets high quality doctors to fill the empty spots. Also many of the Cuban doctors like Guatemala and end up staying.
Well, off to Tacaná and crossed fingers for WIFI.


Day One in Sibinal 11/30/2015



Before I get to today’s activities, there were a couple of things I forgot to mention in yesterday’s posting, I was able to put a few photos in Picasa, one of Luis telling Jaime and Kali his background, one of the volcano at Antigua and one or two of an amazing sunset we saw as we entered San Marcos, with mist rising up out of the valley. Tonight I’m in a hotel near Sibinal and there is no WIFI so I’m writing this entry in Word and hope to transfer it in the next day or two. I think there may be WIFI at the house where we are holding the clinic, and if so I’ll post it tomorrow.
The two things I forgot are both related to the government of Guatemala. The first is that Guatemala is divided into 22 districts, each with a Governor, and all of the Governors are appointed by the President, rather than elected by the people they govern. This, of course, gives the President enormous power and control of the country and feeds the culture of kickbacks and corruption.  Luis had been the personal lawyer for the Governor of San Marcos for the past two years but resigned a few months ago.  I thought it was because of all the allegations of corruption that took the President down, but it actually was because all the Governors had to leave office when the President “stepped down” (and went to jail.) I asked Luis about his opinion of the newly elected President and his take was, “As for political experience, he ran for an obscure office once and lost, and as for his professional life (a stand up comic,) he tells very bad jokes.”
The second thing I learned, this from Kali, is that there are two government programs in Guatemala designed to fight malnutrition in pregnant women, nursing mothers and young children.  The first is that all women who are pregnant or nursing infants up to six months of age and all children age 6-36 months are supposed to get Encaparina, a very nutritious grain based supplement that can be mixed as a drink or porridge.  In addition, children aged 6 to 23 months are supposed to get a micronutrient powder 180 days each year.  This program was voted in and funded a few years ago.  However, in 2015, a typical year, only 15% of the Encaparina and powder were distributed, for a variety of reasons. In some cases, there was no funding for transporting it, in others, no infrastructure for figuring out who would load it up and distribute it, etc.  Most is sitting in warehouses about to expire before the 2016 load gets delivered.  Luis will check with officials he knows in San Marcos to see if there is any available for his district, but it’s one of those things that drives one crazy when dealing with hungry kids.
So, on to today.  We left San Marcos at 6:00am after picking up Maria, the general practitioner.  She recently moved to Guatemala from Cuba along with another woman who is also a GP.  Half way through the morning, this second woman arrived, and the two of them were kept busy seeing adults most of the day. They were very funny but nearly impossible to understand between their Cuban swallowed consonants and their tendency to interrupt each other mid-sentence to clarify or correct.  It made me dizzy trying to follow a conversation with both of them. Tomorrow I’ll try them one on one.
You have to really want to go to Sibinal to put up with driving there. The road goes up and over the volcanic mountain with not enough switchbacks so it feels like being on a badly designed roller coaster.  There are signs every 100 yards or so saying, “Curva Peligrosa,” (dangerous curve,” as if one wouldn’t notice. Despite these blind “curves” and the nearly vertical pitch, drivers are constantly trying to pass each other where there is clearly no room to pass and certainly no view of the upcoming traffic.  In the towns along the way there are enormous speed bumps every 50 yards or so that require one to stop before driving over.  Going over them without stopping risks whatever might be on the undercarriage of your car.  Most drivers navigate the towns by driving as fast as they can from one speed bump to the next, stopping, going over, dashing on, etc. It’s crazy.  Luckily Luis is a prudent driver, but you still arrive in Sibinal feeling a bit beat up.
We saw patients in a large house shared by three generations of one family.  Our meals were prepared by the current grandmother, mother and 15 year old daughter and were delicious.  My patient load was light today as the kids had been given the day off to help with the corn harvest. Once the corn has completely dried, the ears are remove from the stalks by hand, then the kernels are stripped and toasted over open fires in huge pots before being ground for tortillas.  The entire village turns out on the day designated as perfect for the harvest.  I have some wonderful photos that will eventually be on Picasa when I have access to WIFI.
Though I only saw about 40 kids, less than half the usual number, the first two had problems that reminded me how lucky we are to have access to advanced medical care.  The first was a 12 year old boy who was the size of an eight year old.  He walked in assisted by his grandmother and aunt.  He had a very abnormal gait, wide-based and had an obvious tremor.  Between the grandmother and aunt, the story gradually emerged.  They had travelled for eight days, first walking for two days out of their very remote village, then riding a burro and horse for two days and then coming by bus the rest of the way in order to have this child seen today.  They had very little knowledge of his history as he doesn’t liv with either of them nor with his mother.  He lives with neighbors, they thought.  There were some documents from an evaluation done by “a general doctor somewhere,” but in the rush to leave home, they had left them on the table.  They knew he had been born at home but didn’t know if he had been early or small.  He had always needed help to walk, had never spoken except to say, “Ma,” but could hear and understand.  They came because they wanted him to have an evaluation and to get services for him.
It was heartbreaking for me to sit and listen to them tell their story.  The boy, who was very engaging and seemed on what examination I could do in my limited circumstances to be of at least average intelligence, likely had a brain injury around the time of his birth.  Diagnostically, he would likely fall into that broad category of “cerebral palsy.” If he lived in a city, he could get physical therapy, educational services, speech therapy, and on and on.  Here, living as he does in a remote village reached on foot horseback, nothing is available.  Luis will arrange an evaluation by a neurologist that may at least give his grandmother and aunt some information, but it won’t really make a difference for the boy.
My second patient was a seven year old boy with a mass in the lower jaw.  His mother said that he lost a lower incisor in July and then the gum started to swell. She saw a doctor who gave her an “antibiotic” called ibuprofen for the infection.  He finished that yesterday but the swelling was worse and painful.  The swelling came from the gingiva, was firm and distorted the lower alveolar ridge – pushing the lower lip out so the boy couldn’t close his mouth.  I’ll be seeing patients in the Policlínica in San Marcos on Friday, and Luis arranged for the boy to come then so the dentist in the clinic can see him and we’ll go from there.
After a few more patients there was a lull so Luis took Bette and me to see a “surprise.”  This turned out to be a stunning turn around that’s happened in Sibinal since our February visit.  A group of 100 women got together to form a collective, and using some of the money for the garden projects, they have been growing  vegetables in large plots all over the village. They built fences, first harvesting cane, hauling gravel from the streambed and then wiring the cane together, (photos to come.) They bought goats, sheep and a cow and are using the dung to fertilize the crops so everything is organic.  They’re growing broccoli, cauliflower, beans, cilantro, potatoes, corn and some other local vegetables.  The greenhouse that was full of tomatoes last year has been reconstructed and is now huge with a high ceiling and is full of roses.  There is a second greenhouse, also with roses, a hutch with rabbits and a beehive. Chickens are running around everywhere and their eggs are part of the diet.  The vegetables are so big and healthy with no insect damage and hardly a weed to be seen.  The beans grow up the corn stalks, so no beanpoles are needed.  The pride of the women as they showed us around was obvious.  They explained about how the food was divided among the families, how much went to market for money to buy seeds to sustain the crops, how they planned which crops to plant to maximize their goals of nutrition and sustainability.  I asked if there were any plans to use the wool from the sheep to weave or knit articles to sell at the market and one of the women said that the abuelas (grandmothers) in the group were discussing it but that they were all still recovering from building the gardens.  The knowledge and sophistication of these women, and their poise in explaining their project was humbling.  So often, I think we fall into the trap of perceiving rural people as less intelligent and less able than ourselves.  Clearly that would be a huge mistake here.  I’m still trying to put what I saw yesterday together with the Sibinal I saw just eight months ago.  Luis will see if Rachael from USAID can come a little early on Thursday and bring her over here to see the Sibinal project before coming back to Tacaná to see the irrigation project there.
Today we’re expecting a large crowd of kids as the harvest of the corn is done.  More tomorrow.


Sunday, November 29, 2015

Drive to San Marcos - Sunday, November 29, 2015

Today we drove to San Marcos, but on the way we stopped to meet with Kali Erickson and her husband, Jaime at El Proyecto Familias de Esperanza (the project of families of hope, roughly translated.) Kali has a nutrition background and has worked extensively in Peru, Bolivia, Guatemala and Africa, mainly in maternal/child health. Jaime is a veterinarian and has a degree in animal husbandry. He’s been with the US State department and Kali’s been working in the US, and they decided they wanted to go back to Guatemala where they felt they could really make more of a difference. They have two young daughters and also wanted to have more time together as a family.  Jane Cross, a local pediatrician who is very active in global health, especially in Peru, introduced me to Kali, and we’ve been emailing and planning to meet.  I was nervous about the meeting because Luis is always shy of making new alliances or meeting people who might interfere with his vision.  Luckily, there was an instant connection between Luis and both Jaime and Kali.  Our planned brief stop turned into a two and a half hour breakfast where we heard about their work and discussed our project.  They asked Luis about his background, and he actually told them his story. I’ve never seen him so animated.  Eventually, he and Jaime went off to discuss their work, and Kali and Bette and I switched to English. It turns out that Kali knows Rachael, the USAID field worker who is coming to see the irrigation project on Thursday, and she said we couldn’t have a better person. Rachael is from the US, as been with USAID in Guatemala for eight months and is very committed to seeing that the programs actually aid the rural indigenous people as well as those in the cities.  In all, it was a very encouraging visit, and I all three seemed eager to work together in the future.
Once at the hotel in San Marcos, Bette and I sorted the medications, dividing them into bags for the three sites where we will hold clinics, Sibinal Monday and Tuesday, Tacaná Wednesday and Thursday, and the clinic in San Marcos on Friday.  We’ll leave at 6:00 am for the 2 ½ hour drive to Sibinal and spend that time putting together “school” bags with crayons, markers, coloring book pages, erasers, stickers, etc for the kids.  We’ll pick up the general practitioner on the way. I hope Luis has told her something about how many patients to expect – heh.  I haven’t posted photos today as the internet is very slow here.  There’s no WIFI at the hotel for the next two nights unless we get a portable one so there may be a lull.